View Full Version : I am Idiot - Need Help Please!
krimsonidol
08-29-2004, 01:52 AM
So for some reason I decided I was fully capable of building a new computer myself. I still think I am capable of this. However, after putting everything together, my nice new computer will not boot, will not do anything.
It is not a power supply problem, because I tried two of them.
It is not an outlet problem, because other devices recieve power when plugged into the outlet.
There is no metal shorting the motherboard.
The psu is correctly hooked up to the motherboard.
My personal concerns:
Getting the stock hsf onto my athlonxp 2500+ cpu was a pain - I had to push so hard to get it to lock on that i'm worried i might have damaged the cpu.
I'm worried that my memory might not be compatable with my motherboard, even though the Corsair website says it should be compatable.
I'm worried that my motherboard might have just been DOA (although this is unlikely)
Here is what happens when I try to power on the computer:
I turn on the psu. I turn on the computer from the button on the front of my case. The LEDS on the front of the case flash briefly and then go out. They will not come back on unless I turn off the psu and wait a few seconds and then power it back on and then turn the computer back on (at which point they flash on again for half a millisecond).
And that's it - no fans whirring, no booting, no POST beeps, nada.
I just can't figure out what to do next to troubleshoot this - i've tried everything in my limited range of knowledge.
If anyway has any suggestions, I would appreciate it so much!
And since this is stressing me out, the quicker the response the better :P
Primus
08-29-2004, 12:21 PM
I have built a number of computers myself and this has happened to me too. Most likely there is a short somewhere - I know you said there isn't. Take the mobo out of the case, rest it on a worktable, connect the video card and a monitor, put in just one stick of RAM, connect the power supply from the case to the mobo (a bit tricky if the mobo is outside), connect the speaker cable to the mobo (some mobos do not have a speaker built in, so the POST beep will not sound unless a speaker is connected), use a screwdriver to turn on the mobo (careful) - you need to connect the two pins labeled 'reset' or 'power on' as the case may be, I am assuming you know how to do this.
Also, try clearing the CMOS settings with the jumper before you do this. If there is nothing when you do this, then it may either be the cpu or the mobo. Also, make sure the jumper switches for the FSB settings for the cpu are correct. I had to change them on one of the MSI mobos before it would boot.
Whyzman
08-29-2004, 02:20 PM
There are too many variables to deal with if things don't go right on an initial build. I would agree with Primus regarding clearing the CMOS to get you back to the factory defaults.
A barebones boot has definite troubleshooting advantages. Here's my canned spiel:
For new systems it would be wise to barebones boot the system initially. This is best done on a non-conductive surface such as a piece of cardboard on a table.
Connections from the case/power to the motherboard are accomplished outside of the case on the table.
Barebones is only the RAM, Video Card, Monitor, P/S 2 Keyboard...and of course the CPU>Heatsink>Fan...
See if you can make it through POST with this barebones approach...
Reboot, setting the BIOS to boot from floppy first...usually, the (0) choice, save and exit...shutdown.
If this worked add the floppy drive.
If the system booted again successfully, shutdown and reboot using a RAM tester such as: http://www.memtest86.com...these are self booting.
If all is well, shut down and add the harddrive. If the reboot is successful recognizing the harddrive, I then shutdown and reboot using a floppy with the Harddrive's diagnostics (downloaded from the manufacturer's site)...these are also self booting...
If all systems are go, proceed to add an optical drive capable of loading your operating system...
The concept is to load one hardware device at a time which provides for troubleshooting as well as assembly of the computer.
krimsonidol
08-30-2004, 01:03 AM
Thanks for the replies guys. I have been busy with work and family obligations all day, but I plan to spend my day off tommorow trying to get this computer to work.
A few things though - I noticed earlier today that if I unplug the psu from the mobo just a little bit, and wiggle it (with the power supply on), the led lights on the front of my case flash repeatedly rather than just once. I don't think this means anything in particular, but I thought i'd mention it anyway.
Also, not to sound dumb, but I know how to hook up the reset and power on connectors from the case to the mobo, but um, how do I do this effectively with the mobo not in the case (cuz those wires are kinda short)? And um, also, what do you mean by turning on the mobo with a screwdriver?
Again, thanks for the help; i'm sure i'll get this all worked out eventually, and of course, it will be worth it when I do!
On a side note, these are the components I am working with, in case it matters:
Epox 8RDA3I mobo
AthlonXP 2500+ (retail)
512mb Corsair Value Select Ram
Thermaltake Purepower 420 psu
Sapphire Radeon 9600xt
Aspire X-DreamerII case (which came with no instructions)
I don't know if that info helps, but just in case..
Oh, and also, I don't think I have a speaker wire? I have onboard audio though...?
Ok that's it, and thanks again!
Whyzman
08-30-2004, 01:30 AM
Hmmm...usually the wires from the cases I've worked with have been long enough to make it from the case to motherboard lying outside the case. You may need to orient the case to accommodate the board lying in close enough proximity to get this to work...
The switch for power on the front of the case is a simple "momentary" switch that just needs to make a quick and then released connection to activate power to the motherboard...
I think what Primus is referring to is using a screwdriver to to touch the power leads where the wire from the front case power switch would connect to the motherboard header...never done this as the wires have always been long enough...Caution, indeed, if you attempt this procedure...
Most cases come with a speaker, usually down on the lower front of the case, that is used for motherboard alerts...definitely not your high-fidelity kinda speaker! :rolleyes: It has nothing to do with your soundcard...
I am concerned about the amount of force you mentioned necessary to attach the sink/fan to the processor...Motherboards have been cracked severing the copper traces if not supported properly when attaching the heatsink...
Some folks here prefer to attach the heatsink before placing the board onto the case stand-offs to prevent it from flexing. Either way, care needs to be taken so as not to flex the motherboard.
An important part of a new build is also proper placement of the stand-offs. You want to make sure they are only placed where the attachment screws are at. Some folks have misplaced one of these buggers and shorted the motherboard or severed copper traces. :(
You might want to recheck the seating of the processor. If the cpu has been placed properly into the socket it should be locked in securely when the locking lever is moved down into place.
Also, if you recheck the sink/cpu interface, you might want to make sure if there's a protective film on the thermal tape that it has been removed...
ziba-june
08-31-2004, 06:02 PM
I hope I am worng on this but I would say you had damaged your CPU. AMD Athlon CPUs are extrmely sesitive. Once I used heat pad instead of the gel and just that damaged my CPU. I would suggest you take the CPU to where you bought it and let them check it to see if it's working.
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