AMD AthlonXP3200+ Barton Wont boot at 400 FSB = Athlon XP3200+ Barton = Abit NF7-S v2

[lovecoppe]

Richard Tinkler (UK)
lovecoppe@hotmail.com
07745886424

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Windows XP Pro (service pack 2)
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550W Power Supply Unit
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Abit NF7-S (v2.0)
BIOS ID =
Driver version =
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AMD Athlon XP 3200+ (barton core / 400Mhz FSB)
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1Gb Corsair XMS3200-LL Pro (2 x 512Mb / 500Mhz max)
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Gigabyte 3D cooler Pro
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ATI Radeon 64 DDR ViVo (AGP x 4)
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2 x Seagate Barracuda 120Gb Serial ATA HDD (Set in striped array)
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Samsung DVD-ROM (x52 / IDE)
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Floppy 3.5" Drive IDE
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I originally had the same setup as above but using an AMD Athlon XP 2500+ installed on an Abit NF7-S (v1.0). This setup worked absolutely fine with all BIOS settings, set to maximum.

I later decided to the upgrade CPU to an AMD Athlon XP 3200+ (barton core). It was used with same motherboard, memory etc. PC would not boot up. It got as far as the black screen which shows Windows XP Pro (service pack 2) loading, then it would crash.
I tried lower CPU settings, so it was set as an Athlon XP 2500+ (barton core), but it still wouldn't boot. I entered the most conservative settings possible and it still wouldn't boot. This was done with the latest BIOS ID and motherboard drivers at the time. BIOS ID 22 I believe.

I sent the CPU back to the supplier and they tested it to be working ok.
A friend also confirmed the CPU works ok on his PC.

I decided best course of action was to upgrade the motherboard to the later Abit NF7-S (2.0).
I was disappointed to find that the PC still would not boot up.
Tried again with the CPU setup as Athlon XP 3200+ (barton), but it crashed on black screen showing windows logo

Turned CPU down to a 2500+ (barton) and it still would not boot up.

Changed BIOS settings :-
- System BIOS is not cacheable
- Video BIOS is not cacheable
- AGP multiplier x 4 (set manually)
- AGP fast write = Off
- Memory timing are by SPD (and they are detected correctly)
- CPU voltages set automatically
- Memory voltages set automatically

After making the above changes the PC finally boots up (Yipee!)
But Im not really happy that I have had under-clock the CPU - Memory - Motherboard in order for it to work.
The components are more than capable of running at these speeds - they are designed to do so.

When it crashes the PC switches itself off and the sytem buzzer makes a 2 tone noise, a bit like a UK seventies police siren. Only was to turn off the alarm is to switch the power off at the PC's PSU.

- I have had the CPU tested twice now - that's confirmed OK
- Memory has been tested on another system running at 400 Mhz FSB - That's confirmed OK

I'm now starting to think that the problem could be down to the voltage settings. But I don't want to start playing with these settings without assistance. Please advise me on how to get my PC running how it is meant to run... Cheers!

[saphalline]

Did you clear the CMOS before upgrading the CPU? I noticed that the BIOS history of those mobos includes a previous error that the Barton 2500+ was recognized as a Barton 3200+, but that was supposed to be fixed and that's the reverse of your problem. Also, Soyo specifically lists Corsair XMS as a supported RAM manufacturer, so that's not an issue.

I can't think of anything wrong with your set-up involving the CPU, mobo, or RAM, so perhaps you should look elsewhere. Does it boot and then not load Windows? What is the brand of that 550W PSU? Does is complete a barebones boot?

[lovecoppe]

The PSU is a 550W unit made by Levicom.
The PC usually does the POST and then crashes on the black screen with the Windows XP logo, with the animated bar showing Windows is loading.
I have tried strarting as a barebones sytem and it is just the same. I do have a good cooling setup with bot racer lighting in the case... I even switched those off, but that made no difference.
I know the graphics card is dated and I plan to upgrade in the new year, but surely that can't be causing the problem.

So I'm still thinking this could be something to do with voltages.
Please help!

[deddard]

The fact that the system crashed first time when the windows screen appeared indicates that it isn't likely to be a mobo or processor problem. It could be the way that the HAL is talking to windows. SP2 can cause some oddball situations, and although I haven't heard of this specific problem, it could be worth booting into safe mode and seeing what windows actually thinks is attached (in device manager)
running belarc or aida32 could also show what the system thinks is attached.

try running the 'detect new hardware' from within safe mode, and see if the system picks up any changes. The only thing I can think of which would cause a crash so far into the booting process is either heat or windows falling over it's own feet.
S
In the bios, loading the failsafe defaults often helps in this sort of situation, although there's no guarantees of course.

[lovecoppe]

I will try booting in safe mode and checking what hardware the system thinks is happening. I will that tonight.
The problem is not caused by Service Pack 2. The same problems where there when running Service Pack 1.
I dont believe heat is the problem. The CPU is running at 52-57 degrees which is well below AMD's maximum temp for that chip. The case itself has 3 x 80mm extractor fans.... 1 x 80mm intake fan..... PSU has 2 x 80mm fans built in.... Even the hard disks have heatsinks attached to them..... The memory will be fine coz it's Corsair with built on heat sinks.

When PC crashes, it switches itself off and you can hear (my best description) a 70's police siren. The only way to stop the warning siren is to switch PC off at the mains. I am lead to believe that noise signals a heat problem. Is that so?

Thanks for the feedback.... keep it comming and who knows one day soon I may have a fully working PC!

[saphalline]

The CPU is running at 52-57 degrees.... When PC crashes, it switches itself off and you can hear (my best description) a 70's police siren.Ok, now I understand. Yes, this is a heat problem. That "siren" you are hearing is the mobo's heat alarm, letting you know that your CPU is getting way too hot. Your CPU should only be getting up to that temp under a full load, and maybe not even then. My overclocked P4 never goes above 47 C, and is usually at 42 C idle. If your Barton 3200+ is sitting at 57 C when it's underclocked, then there's a serious heat problem there.

Sure 57 C is still well below AMD's listed max temp, but crashes occur at temps well below the melting temp! 50 C should be your absolute max temp if you want a stable system, so look into reorganizing your fans for better cooling. Also, what is the temp of the room?

[lovecoppe]

saphalline - Lord of Latency, aka "LoL"....
I do believe that you are on the right tracks here. I've just cranked all fans up to maximum (sounds like a jet engine) and the PC is now booting up with the CPU on a 400Mhz FSB. Below is some teperature readings I took when all fans are on full speed.

Setup CPU Case
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Set as 2500+ 333FSB 38-51 22-26
set as 3200+ 400FSB 39-54 23-26

So by turning fans up to max, my CPU has about 7 degrees C.
In order to test stability I tried running both SiS Sandra 2004 and also 3DMark2001(se). Both of these programs crashed after about 30 seconds after starting the benchmark. I asume this is down to the extra load on CPU and the raise in temperature.
This leads me to conclde that my Gigabyte 3D Cooler Pro is rubbish. Gigabyte claim it can support all socket A processors, including mine. The case cooling cannot be improved, but that doesn't seem to be a problem.
This leads me onto my next question.... What is the best and reasonably quiet cooler for my CPU? I don't fancy splashing out on water cooling though.

[saphalline]

Yeah, your case temp is fine. It doesn't change when your CPU gets faster, so your case cooling is more than adequate. That Gigabyte 3D Cooler Pro is definitely not doing its job! :mad: That's pretty sad, because a 3rd party cooler is usually at least as good as the stock heatsink/fan unit, and yours is not.

Something that comes to mind - did the Gigabyte cooler come with a tube of thermal paste or did it just have a thermal pad stuck on the bottom? If it had a thermal pad, there's a plastic cover over it that needs to be removed before putting it on the CPU. If it came with thermal paste, you obviously need to use that. I take it you installed the cooler correctly?

Anyways, you want a reasonably-priced quiet cooler? I don't think they exist. :p Seriously, the heatsink for my P4 cost $40 and it didn't even come with a fan! :eek: But, it's good enough to keep it well below 50 C on a full load while overclocked, so it's definitely doing its job! If you want a cooler that will take the heat (no pun intended) and then some, get a Thermalright heatsink. That way you can attach an 80mm case fan to it and have a much quieter system (most 3rd party coolers use loud 60mm fans). Any of the lower Thermalright models should be more than enough, so don't worry about those $50+ models with dual heatpipes. :cool:

[lovecoppe]

Bought myself a CoolerMaster Jet 7... CPU is now about 18 degrees C cooler.
system works like a dream now... I just wish Gigabyte where more honest when describing the specs of thier coolers. They calim it supports all AMD Athlon Coolers. The truth is - it can only just cope with an AMD Athlon XP 2500+ (barton core)... So buy Gigabbyte coolers with caution