Building my first computer and need advice

[Shi]

ok i bought a computer (used) about 6 months ago for 60 bucks and i'm done playing with it now. i like this Cyrix 6x486 better i think, but i want something new that i can be proud of. i don't really know where to begin, so i'll tell you what i have i guess.

AcerAcros minitower(ATX i think, the model# says 575HD if that helps any)
-case has 3-5 1/4 bays and 2-3 1/2 bays and slots for 2 HDD's
-4 ISA slots and 4 PCI slots
acer V30-1 motherboard (says it can go 75/90/100/120/133 depending on jumpers) with a Pentium(R) processor

what i need to know is how to find out what case i have(ATX mobs seem to be standing up on end compared to mine), and i've crawled all over acer's website with a magnifying glass and haven't found that model anywhere.
the board sitting in the case is 12 inches from front to back and 8 3/4 inches from top to bottom.
can anyone help me identify my hardware? don't know how to tell the power supply rating and i bought it used so i have no manual for it other than acers site....it seems to be a board from thier creation, as nothing on intel's site matches it either.
the computer i am using now has all of the other hardware for my new machine and are as follows:

PowerSpec case(no idea what motherboard is in it, but it has onboard sound and video)
Cyrix 80486dx-33 166MHz(pcpitstop called it a Cyrix 6x86 running at 44MHz)
32MB RAM(4 8MB sticks) board is limited to 30MB
Western Digital 1 GB HDD
Maxtor 800MB HDD
Imation Super Disk 120MB
Windows 98 SE

all of these components(except case and processor) will be reused so i do't really need advice on that part.....yet*grins*
i also have creative ENSONIQ Audio PCI(CT-4810) card for it and a Cirrus Logic graphics card of some kind that came in the junk computer and an AcerView 33D 14 inch moniter that will soon be replaced i hope.
i really need to know what kind of case this is, and if i need a new board or just a new CPU. i hope someone can suggest what to do with this thing other than throw it away.
TIA

[BigGeek02]

I feel your pain. I just finished upgrading my computer and I couldn't find much information on the internet either. Here's what I found:
http://www-4.ibm.com/software/os/warp/hw-cert/v3lists/View1a.htm

The above site has your model number listed as a ACERPOWER 575HV. But, that's all it says. From the way you described your computer and the way the site talks about this "line" of computers, it sounds like you may need to get a new case. http://www.PCGuide.com/ubb/frown.gif Sorry. That is, if you want to get a new board and processor also. Usually, you have to get a new board if you get a new processor, but if your motherboard that you are currently using doesn't already have the largest processor in it that is supports, you can re-use your board. So, my advice (take it or leave it) is to get a new case,processor, and board. But, before you go on a buying frenzy, be sure that any case fans you have will transfer over to the ATX case you decide to buy AND if it doesn't come w/ power, you'll obviously have to buy that too. Hope I was some help. You really just need some more information about the stuff you already have. If you haven't tried it yet, type in the model numbers and/or names of the parts you want to know about into a major search engine. (I found the above site through Yahoo by typing in "575HV") Best of luck.

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Computer Error Haiku-
"Warning: Universe Corrupt. Reboot?(Y/N)"

[Shi]

*sighs*doesn't sound too promising then huh? thx for the help though...still doesn't answer why all these other boards are "sideways" though*grins*

[Paleo Pete]

I can't find anything either, but you might not be totally out of luck yet...


Look for a bar code with a part number on the case somewhere, they have a place to search by part number.
Look on the power supply, most have a sticker somewhere that says what the power rating is, and if it's an AT it should have two plugs, ATX should have only one plug that goes to the motherboard. This may well also be a proprietary system, Acer made a lot of those in the Acros series. That means they might have also had a special power supply made for the case that does not fit the normal descriptions.
If the computer will currently boot as far as the second boot screen, the [Pause] key will hold that screen long enough to write down the BIOS ID string, which is normally at the bottom left. Wim's BIOS (http://www.ping.be/bios/) has listings for Award and AMI BIOS numbers you can use to try and identify the motherboard, and maybe find a manual, which will tell you if it's AT or ATX, as well as other info that you wiull need if you intend to work on the system. Wim's also has a BIOS ID utility you can use, if the machine will run.


That's all I can think of for now, see what you can find out about the machine and get back to us.

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[Shi]

I already verified the mob type(V30-1)from AcerUK's website.they don't have any manual for it and i haven't had any luck searching for one.BUT, as you(Paleo Pete)pointed out to me this morning in another post, i didn't look close enough at the power connecter, and after doing so found that it's actually 2 6-pin connectors instead of only one.thx felt a bit stupid but found out what i was looking for....its an AT http://www.PCGuide.com/ubb/wink.gif if you are just curious the sting starts with ACR9A...don't recall the ending which identifies the bios i think...but its written down here somewhere.the machine will run....if i put it all back together....right now its just a case w/power supply and mb still in it..i think the hard disk over on the shelf still has o/s on it too(win98SE)...heheh
now for a new question, since all the AT's i have looked at are mounted corrctly.
a lot of the boards say they support LS-120 ATAPI....does this mean my imation super disk will be bootable and possibly read a 1.44 if i get one of these boards? also does imation(or anybody for that matter) have a listing of boards that support this or is it becoming a standard? many of the socket370's and some of the socket7's have listed it, but not all of them do. if this is the case and they are bottable with these boards, then i should definately want this feature, right? anyone have any thoughts on this matter?
also what are the differences between 370's and 7's? what i can tell is that celerons are used on 370 and p/pII/pIII on both...is that all?
one final q.
if i go with a faster proccessor, will it be counter-productive to stick with the 75-233 range or is there enough power there to keep it productive for a while? if this turns out well, i will probably build a new one in a year or so, but i'm still a novice at this so i don't really want to plan on something that may never take place. http://www.PCGuide.com/ubb/eek.gif http://www.PCGuide.com/ubb/biggrin.gif http://www.PCGuide.com/ubb/biggrin.gif

[Reid]

This ACER UK Tech Support (http://www.uktechsupport.f9.co.uk/acer/aceridx.htm) link tells how to identify ACER models.

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reido@my-deja.com

Friends don't let friends load Windows ME

[Paleo Pete]

OK, so it's an AT board. Good to know, and don't feel stupid just because you weren't quite sure what to look for. That's how we learn...

BIOS ID string...if you have it written down, get it and see if you can find a motherboard manual. The Acros series were often proprietary, so you might not be able to use another board at all, about the only way I know to be sure is to get another board and compare the two. If you end up using that board, you need the manual.

If you need to get the ID String again, all you need plugged in is CPU, memory, keyboard and video card. since you only need to boot to the second screen, nothing else is needed. No need to put the whole thing back together. Oh, a monitor might help... http://www.PCGuide.com/ubb/biggrin.gif

Not sure about the LS-120 issue, the floppy type will boot, once installed, but I'm not sure about the ATAPI type. Seems like it should, but I don't know.

Socket 7 and socket 370 are different types of CPU sockets, each supports certain CPU's. The socket type determines the range of CPU's you can use with the board. I doubt if you could use a socket 370 board in that case, but again not sure.

I think since this is your first attempt at building your own computer it would be a good idea to stick with the 75-266MHz range of CPU, the parts to build that class of computer are much cheaper, and the best way to go if you want to learn. I wouldn't advise anyone to try and learn computer building by shelling out $700-1000 or more for top of the line parts that could become paperweights due to inexperience. Go for the Pentium class, learn first, risk the serious bucks on your next one.

CSO (http://www.computersurplusoutlet.com) and PriceWatch (http://www.pricewatch.com) both usually have the best prices on parts you'll find, and almost always have older components listed for the earlier Pentiums.

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If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you!
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[This message has been edited by Paleo Pete (edited 01-27-2001).]

[Shi]

great info...kinda my thinking too, but i like to have a second opinion about what to build my first go round. http://support.acer.co.uk/pcg/images/v30-1.gif
this is the motherboard diagram from acer...matches great so it must be it.already played with all the jumpers to see if it made a difference from 75 to 133...BTW won't boot at 133...120 is highest i got it to go. only difference i noticed is at startup it said a different speed http://www.PCGuide.com/ubb/rolleyes.gif
this is exactly how its mounted in the case and it measures 13 inches fromnt to back and 8 3/4 inches top to bottom.
the bios version is v2.0R01-01 copyright 1995 ACER. INC
the processor is marked as socket5 and stamped A80502-75 SX969 and the chipset is SB82437FX-66 and 82371FB
still haven't found a manual for it yet though.
the screwholes sound right from what i saw on this site. 3 rows...using bottom and middle fully and the top corner by mouse connector...leaving emptys above memory slots and corner above processor. there is another 3/4 inch available above the board and about an inch to the fromt of the board so it could go to 9 1/2" X 14".
should i be thinking about sticking to a socket 5 board?they seemed rather limited in speed....seems like ive only seen up to 166MHz support on the ones i've noticed.
didn't notice anything on CSO that interested me...going to look at pricwatch now. i found a board that really sounds nice from Asus(Mod.# TX97-N), but only saw it on company site and not for sale? any ideas? searched google, yahoo, altavista, and goto, but with no luck finding it yet. tiger direct seems to be all about t-birds and i815 boards, which i have no use for*snickers*
off to look a bit more http://www.PCGuide.com/ubb/biggrin.gif

[Paleo Pete]

From that diagram I can't be really sure, but you might be able to use a standard AT board in the case, I don't see anything that indicates otherwise. Socket 5 as you say, limits you in speed, Socket 7 will allow up to 233-266MHz CPU's depending on the board. Watch out for the Intel 430 series chipset, it only caches 64MB RAM, otherwise it's a good chipset. It limits you to 64MB though, if you try to use more the machine actually slows down.
It will be marked i430xx the x's being FX, TX, VX, or HX. The HX can use more than 64MB, but you have to add more cache. I think it's called "Tag RAM".

For the screw holes, use plastic standoffs, and if you don't have a screw hole or slot for one in a critical spot, cut the button off the bottom, so it can support the board when you push cards or memory chips in. I use small wire cutters, a knife can be a bit rough on the fingers...you should have standoffs on the present board, and if you need more, computer shops have them and they shouldn't cost much.

You might also check local computer shops, they might have older boards that still work, but that's a long shot, I can't find an older hard drive under 4-6GB around here and have scoured the area for ages. Make sure you get a guarantee that it will work, if you find one, especially if it's used.

And take extra care to make sure you ground yourself on the chassis before touching any internal parts, ststic electricity can damage parts, and ruin your whole day...With an AT power supply you can leave it plugged in, but make SURE the power switch is OFF.

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If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you!
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[Shi]

ok i decided to go with the gigabyte GA-5AA mob, and a 200 or 233 MMX processor. i have a question about memory now. all the mem i have is 72 pin and this one uses 168 pin. but there are so many types of mem(100,133,EDO,ECC,etc.) i can't tell from the specs which one i need. its says it supports 33/66 IDE and numerous clock speeds but it doesn't say what mem is needed other than 168 pin EDO/SDRAM DIMM. im guessing its not safe to assume that any 168 pin will work, but which one?
http://www.giga-byte.com/products/ga5aa.htm

this is manufacturers web page for it can anyone narrow it down for me and possibly explain why/how they dedcided which?
i don't want to seem lazy, but i simply do not understand the differences in the different types available other than PC-100 and PC-133 which is a little bit more self-explanitory.

[bassvax]

Check this out http://www.crucial.com/store/listparts.asp?model=GA-5AA&x=6&y=12

After looking at the link for your mobo I believe what is confusing you is the front side bus (FSB) numbers. These depend on the processor you use-check the specs on the CPU you're gonna use an determine what FSB you're gonna run at...then go to the above website and OOPS they only offer PC-100 and PC-133 which should not be a problem since it looks like your mobo will allow you to set the RAM memory bus in the bios. These two types should be backwards compatible and you can definetly call Crucial and they will tell it works OK. I'd suggest buying the PC-133 CAS 2 latency...this would allow you to pull the RAM to use in another PC if you decide to upgrade. You will notice that your boards supports ECC (Error Checking and Correcting)...I would not spend the extra dough on that memory unless you were running some type of business or a server. Same goes with the EDO (Extended Data Out) memory...no need to spend that kind of money.

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Jerry

[Shi]

excellent prices on that site jerry! i was looking all over and this site has them all beat on memory.....nearly 30% less! and 3 year warranty too..heh. thx for the info about what i should get, and i think i will follow your suggestion 64MB PC-133 CL-2(still not sure what this cl-2/3 thing is) for $33+s/h isn't too bad. especially after what i paid for my 16M sticks for my 486 a few months back! its unbelievable how much the diff is between the two types!(althoughg i'm sure there is a logical reason) so i have decided on the ga-5aa for $73, the 200MMX for $49, and two 64MB PC-133 for $65. it says it will support bootability for my LS-120, but i will let you guys know about that part...heheh
i'm sure next i will have questions about how FAST i can make this configuration, but that will be next week after all my new toys get here and i assemble them...heheh perhaps the FSB thing could be explained a bit better to me?
again thx for all the advice and help people http://www.PCGuide.com/ubb/smile.gif

[Shi]

oh and BTW, paleo pete, i have 3 hard drives under 4G that i wish i could get rid of*grins* i'm trying really hard to find something in the 4-8G range, but they are either way over-priced(usually about the same as 20G) or none at all! why is that? i have a 1G(western Digital) i use now and a 1.2G and 800MB(both Maxtor) the latter with a few bad sections, but all at the end of the drive, so i have been using it as an o/s drive only
maybe when i see the board i will understand what you mean about the buttons to support it?

[Paleo Pete]

Took me a minute to figure out what you meant by "buttons to support it". The board is usually mounted with screws and plastic "standoffs" that push through holes in the board where screws don't have a place with threads. You'll see slotted holes in the chassis for them after you remove the old board.

If you don't have a slotted hole under the memory slots, or a screw nearby, the standoff has a button on bottom that fits in the slotted hole. Snip that button off and it will sit perfectly on the board and offer support when you push cards or memory chips in, so the board won't bend to omuch. Standoffs are also made to fit the small screwholes, check with computer shops, they're cheap and sometimes they will just give you a few.

Email me and let me know what you want for the drives, I'll see what I can do. Money is tight right now, until I get transportation fixed, but I may be able to work something out. I have at least 3 computers here that can use only 2GB drives or under.

Check the link I posted above to CSO, they have a Fujitsu 4.3GB drive for $79 recently posted. That's not the greatest price, when the 10GB is $20 more...I'll fix the link to Pricewatch, you might find something there too.



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If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you!
Note: Please post your questions on the forums, not in my email.

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