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saphalline
10-11-2008, 03:39 PM
Power supplies have gone through a lot of changes in the last few years. This is reflected by the advances in hardware that they power. PSU's will continue to change, but the flurry of activity even within the last two years demands some perspective. Just what is the latest ATX spec? What is a "new" PSU? What makes a PSU better for modern systems? While these questions are important, answering them requires delving into electrical theory, which is largely insignificant to the greater goal of picking a good PSU for your new rig. :p Let's just lay down some highlights...


PRICE - Expect a high quality PSU capable of handling today's hardware to cost you at least $60 USD. Also expect the cost to easily approach $150 USD for a gaming rig. The PSU cost should be no less than 10% of the total cost of the system, minus peripherals and OS. Upgrades are exempt.

COOLING - Any and all cooling provided by the PSU should be considered the sole property of the PSU. In other words, the PSU fans are meant to cool the PSU, not the system! When counting fans in any rig, exclude the PSU fans, as they are designed to provide adequate airflow for the PSU alone. This is an important aspect of system cooling, because hotter PSU's are less efficient, and overheating PSU's are on their death beds.

POWER DRAW - PSU's only draw as much power as they need for the system. A 1000W PSU will not consume 1000W at all times, merely when it is needed. When calculating your monthly power bill, leave the poor PSU alone! It only does what you ask of it, no more. Maximum PSU power draw occurs during system power-up; average PSU power draw is often 60% less, depending on your hardware. You buy it, you power it, but not at maximum at all times.

WATTAGE - 500W minimum for modern systems. 550W minimum if you have a dedicated vid card. 600W minimum for high-end gaming hardware. 700W or more recommended for SLI/CrossFire systems. Aim high. A 700W PSU will not draw any more power than a 500W PSU for a cheap rig, other than possibly being more efficient.

EFFICIENCY - 75% minimum. Easily accomplished by today's PSU's. 80% or more recommended for high-end gaming rigs. More than a few of these exist today. Expect to pay more up-front for increased efficiency. Expect your PSU's quality to be top-notch with 80% efficiency.

QUALITY - If you can throw your PSU at a friend without causing bleeding injuries, you should throw it out! Weight is the first indicator of PSU quality. Less than 2 lbs is a joke! The average $60 PSU is fairly hefty, and the average $100 PSU can crush a beetle! Manufacturers also play a heavy role in PSU quality, but nothing beats good old fashioned reviews. Do your research.

POWER CONNECTORS - No 24-pin main ATX power connector = fail. No SATA power connectors = fail. No PCIe power connectors = fail. For new purchases as of today, you also need: one 8-pin CPU power connector (convertible 4/8-pin or 8-pin plus 4-pin); one or more 8-pin PCIe 2.0 power connectors; four or more SATA power connectors (preferably six or more); power cable strands with no more than four of any type of power connector in series (ie, many many cable strands from the PSU).

RAIL DESIGN - Multiple +12V DC rails are common. These are fine for baseline systems through mid-range gaming rigs. 700W or more intended for high-end gaming rigs, including but not limited to SLI/CrossFire, should increasingly prefer single-rail +12V DC. Pursuant to the other qualifications, a high quality gaming-caliber 700W or more PSU should cost enough to justify the existence of quality components within the PSU to allow for high quality single-rail +12V DC design. In the case of SLI/CrossFire, a high quality single-rail +12V DC design is preferred over multiple +12V DC rails.

POWER FACTOR CORRECTION - Active PFC of 0.97 to 1.0 is preferred but not necessary. Modern high quality PSU's above $80 are likely to have 0.99 by default.

SUPPORTING DEVICES - An uninterruptible power supply (more commonly known as a "battery backup") is essential for protecting the PSU and other hardware from undue electrical stress. Surge protectors provide a mere 1/3 of the protection of a UPS, and none of its convenience. In addition to an adequate UPS, a higher quality and higher cost version with AVR (automatic voltage regulation) is preferred. These supporting devices vary in cost: surge protectors start at $10, UPS's start at $35, UPS's w/AVR start at $90. It is recommended that you spend at least an additional 3% of the total cost of the system on a supporting device for your PSU. Thus a $10 surge protector would be just fine for a $330 system.

PrntRhd
10-11-2008, 05:24 PM
I am making this a sticky post for now, when it gets old/obsolete, we can take it off sticky status.

mjc
10-11-2008, 07:48 PM
Or just change the wattage requirements...;)

jlreich
10-12-2008, 12:33 AM
a high quality single-rail +12V DC design is preferred over multiple +12V DC rails.
I totally agree with this and would like to further stress it. It wasn't very long ago the price disparity from a decent multi rail unit to a good single rail unit was large and furthermore left you with only a few choices for manufacturers. So multi rail was the way to go for most of us. This is not the case anymore. Many manufacturers are now making quality single rail units in the 700W+ range. If you are looking in that wattage range you need to look for a large single rail with 60A+. The exceptions to this, I would think, are the few units that we are starting to see with two large rails with 40A each.

An uninterruptible power supply (more commonly known as a "battery backup") is essential for protecting the PSU and other hardware from undue electrical stress.
Another great point that is often overlooked by so many people. A UPS is a barrier between bad/no power and your system. I can't begin to tell you how many power supplies I have to go around replacing after a storm rolls through the area. And it isn't just storms, it could be a transformer that blows down the street, simply bad wiring in your house/building, a sag or spike on the line, etc.

If you can throw your PSU at a friend without causing bleeding injuries, you should throw it out!
Haha! I am going to have to use this method to test my PSU. Just as soon as I find a willing participant. :p Hmm, I wonder what they would say if we walked into a CC or BB and tried this out? :D

mjc
10-12-2008, 01:19 AM
An uninterruptible power supply (more commonly known as a "battery backup") is essential for protecting the PSU and other hardware from undue electrical stress.
Another great point that is often overlooked by so many people. A UPS is a barrier between bad/no power and your system. I can't begin to tell you how many power supplies I have to go around replacing after a storm rolls through the area. And it isn't just storms, it could be a transformer that blows down the street, simply bad wiring in your house/building, a sag or spike on the line, etc.

I live in a rural area...a UPS is not an option, it is essential. I have what I affectionately call 'country power'...the neighbor has cows in the pasture and the fence is on...*click*click*click*. I have 2 - 3 mini-blackouts (5 to 15 seconds) a week. And the list goes on and on...

Face it, getting electricity to your house from the generating plant is basically done the same way today as it was about a hundred years ago...not much has changed. When all that your average consumer used that electricity for was incandescent light bulbs, motor driven appliances and maybe a vacuum tube radio/tv (ie before 1970) or electronics with lots of discrete components (transistors...) (before mid 90s), 'clean' power to the home wasn't essential. But now, more and more, today's electronics (not just computers...but almost all consumer electronics...your new TV probably has a CPU...and one at least as powerful as an original Pentium) really need 'clean' power to function...not just function well, but more often just to function.

A simple 'surge' protector just isn't up to dealing with that kind of chore...

Yeah, it will stop the worst of the big spikes...but do absolutely nothing for all the other crap on the line (RFI from your cordless phone, weird ripples from your microwave, spikes and dips (not huge, but bigger than ripples) from your clothes dryer and so on).

PrntRhd
10-12-2008, 02:33 AM
A simple 'surge' protector just isn't up to dealing with that kind of chore...
Even a small laser printer/laser fax machine with zero-cross fuser control can cause all sorts of electrical noise issues for other devices like PCs, routers and modems. You can hit the PC PSU with spikes and noise and it may live through the first ones, and then degrades to the point of erratic operation and failure.
And that modern clothes dryer down the hall may have that same zero-cross technology, older ones had relays that generate large spikes on the line as well. Also air conditioner cycling on/off and refrigerators cycling on/off can produce spikes and sags. Sags can almost instantly make the PSU max out trying to keep the voltages up. Surge protectors only prevent spikes and don't handle sags at all.

A UPS can keep you online and still computing with clean and stable power for the PSU to use to keep you going.

hockey man
10-13-2008, 12:02 AM
Thanks Saphalline. Great Post Idea as usual!